December 2019 – As an Indian I feel very lucky that I get to live in such a diverse country where we have mountains, beaches, jungles, deserts and more, just a bus or train journey away. So on one such place hunting session of mine, I decided to visit the desert state of our country – RAJASTHAN. It will be wrong to call it the desert state only, Rajasthan is the land of the brave Rajputs and such rich cultural heritage that every nook and cranny of India’s largest state is filled with history. I wanted to utilize the Christmas and New Year holidays for this as Rajasthan needed atleast 8-9 days. I knew it would be crowded during this time but off season in Rajasthan would have been accompanied by scorching heat of 50 degrees which I was not ready to experience, so I decided to concentrate on the places more than the crowd. A friend of mine who had always wanted to visit Rajasthan readily agreed to be my partner on this trip. After much planning, we narrowed down on 5 places-
Mount Abu
Jodhpur
Jaisalmer
Jaipur
Bhangarh
Now let me tell you how to experience Rajasthan on a budget without compromising on getting the feel of every place fully.
Mount Abu (1 day)
Rajasthan’s only hill station in the Aravalli range has an altitude of 1220m (4003 ft). We took a bus from Ahmedabad at 2am at night and reached Mount Abu at 7am in the morning. You can also take a train till Abu Road which is the closest station to Mount Abu.
Considered as an ‘oasis of the desert’, Mount Abu is a welcome respite from the heat of Rajasthan which is almost 60% desert. It presents a stark contrast from the other parts of the state with it’s cool weather and spiralling hilly roads.
Jodhpur is just 5 hours away from Mount Abu and we took a bus and reached at 8am. Jodhpur is also called the ‘Blue City’ because of the blue houses you find everywhere. I found Jodhpur to be a beautiful amalgamation of local life and fancy touristy spots. We spent the mornings visiting the forts and the palaces and the evenings shopping in the local markets and dining at fancy restaurants with beautiful night views of the city.
Jaisalmer is the city you need to visit if you want the true desert feel. Due to the yellow sand and yellow sandstone used in every architecture, Jaisalmer is also called the ‘Golden City’. Right in the heart of the Thar desert, Jaisalmer is also famous for it’s camel safaris. It is just 5 hours away from Jodhpur and we reached at 8.30am in the morning after taking a bus from Jodhpur.
We took a bus from Jaisalmer and reached Jaipur at 8am after traveling 12 hours. Jaipur, also called the Pink City, is your typical capital city with lots of traffic and crowd but also boasting of rich history and beautiful forts. One day we also visited Bhangarh fort, the most haunted place in Asia according to the Archaeological Survey of India.
December 2019 – The mountain lover in me couldn’t resist visiting the only hill station of Rajasthan. This was the first stop of our Rajasthan trip. Situated in the Southern part of Rajasthan, Mount Abu is located in the Aravalli Range and is sometimes referred to as “An Oasis in the Desert”. Mount Abu has an altitude of 1220m (4000 ft) and the highest peak, Guru Shikhar, rises upto 1722m (5650 ft)
How to reach?
If you are taking a flight then Udaipur has the nearest airport, around 180km away.
If you are taking a train then you can get down at Abu Road which is connected to major Indian citites like Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur, Ahmedabad and then take a cab or bus to Mount Abu.
We had booked a bus from Ahmedabad to Mount Abu via redBus for 400₹. We boarded the bus at 2am and reached Mount Abu after 4.5 hours at 6.30am. The temperature was 10 degrees Celsius then. The distance between Ahmedabad and Mount Abu is 225km.
We had already booked a room in the resort, Rising Sun Retreat , which was around 1km from the bus stand. After reaching the resort, we freshened up, had our breakfast and started our Mount Abu sightseeing. Our hotel manager booked a cab for us for the entire day for 1500₹. You can also hire a scooty for the day at cheaper rates.
Arbuda Devi Temple
It is dedicated to Goddess Durga and you need to climb 365 steps (each step representing a day) to reach the temple. The temple is built under a rock and devotees need to bend and crawl to enter the cave. The temple is surrounded by scenic beauty all around.
The steps to Arbuda Devi TempleThe view from Arbuda Devi Temple
Guru Shikhar
You can trek upto the highest peak of the Aravallis at an altitude of 5650ft. You need to climb around 200 steps to reach the top where there is a temple dedicated to Guru Dattatreya, the incarnation of Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva. The view of the entire Mount Abu from the top is breathtaking.
Dattatreya TempleThe view from Guru Shikhar
Dilwara Jain Temples
This is one of the most beautiful Jain pilgrimages in the world and the most famous spot in Mount Abu. Built in between the 11th and 13th centuries AD by the Chalukya dynasty, the intricate and extraordinary marble carvings and architecture gave me goosebumps. The temples are built of pure white marbles and the temples have been rightly called a dream in marble on account of their unbelievable perfection of architect and fine designs. You are not allowed to carry any phone or camera inside. Since I was not able to take any photos, to keep this place in my memories, I bought a book about the history of the temple from the stall outside.
The entrance to Dilwara Temples
Nakki Lake
This small but magnificent lake, surrounded by green hills is a pleasant and unique centre of attraction. It is believed that a sage named Balam Rasiya dug it out with his nails (Nakh) and that’s why it was called Nakki Lake. The market is also situated near Nakki Lake in case you plan to do some shopping.
The view of the valley from Toad RockNakki Lake
Toad Rock
Mount Abu abounds in grotesquely shaped rocks which often resemble animals. One such protrusion, overhanging the south of Nakki Lake is the famous Toad Rock. It’s shape resembles a giant toad overlooking the lake. You need to climb around 300 steps to reach the rock and you will also be rewarded with the beautiful view of the whole valley.
Toad RockThe steps leading to Toad Rock
Sunset Point
At around 5.30pm, our driver dropped us at the entrance to the sunset point. After getting a ticket of 55₹ per head, we walked 1km to the point. It was fully crowded and there are platforms made for people to sit and admire the sunset. Finally at around 6pm we got to admire the beauty of the setting sun of Mount Abu.
The crowd at Sunset Point
After reaching our hotel, we had our dinner and then reached Abu Road bus stand at 2am from where we had to board a bus to Jodhpur which was our next destination. Read on to know more about our Jodhpur experience.
One day is enough to admire the scenic beauty of Mount Abu. Even if you are not interested in visiting temples, then just visit the Dilwara temples. You will be stunned by the magnificence of the place.
Trip Cost
Bus from Ahmedabad to Mount Abu – 400(per head)
Resort – 1500 ( 1 room for 1 day)
Sightseeing ticket – 55 (per head)
Food – 800 (for 2 people)
Cab for sightseeing – 2000
Total – 2500 (approx. per head)
Network Connectivity
Airtel and Jio networks were spotty in some places but mostly available. Vodafone was mostly unavailable.
Language
Most people speak Hindi or English or Rajasthani. So if you know either of them, it won’t be a problem.
(All the pictures you see are mine and not stolen from any other source)
December 2019 – The second stop of our Rajasthan trip, Jodhpur, has a timeless charm and is the perfect mixture of royalty and local life. The second largest city of Rajasthan was founded by Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief in the 15th century and was made capital of the kingdom of Marwar. Guarded by one of the largest forts in India, the beauty of this city is rustic as well as regal at the same time. There are specific areas where the homes and the lanes have been painted blue and hence the name ‘Blue City’. Why Jodhpur is painted blue is still a bit unclear. Some say the blue houses denote the houses of the Brahmins while some say that blue keeps the homes cool during the summer months. Read on to know how we absorbed the feel of Jodhpur by getting lost in it’s numerous alleys.
How to reach ?
You can directly take a flight to Jodhpur from major cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Ahmedabad, Pune.
If you are taking a train then Jodhpur has direct trains from most major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai.
We reached Jodhpur at 7am by bus from Mount Abu booked via redBus for 800 ₹. The distance between Jodhpur and Abu Road is 250km and it took us 4 hours by bus.
It was 7 degrees Celsius when we reached and other than the freezing cold, what caught my eye was the majestic Mehrangarh Fort, visible from everywhere, sitting at the top of the city like a king.
Day 1
We had already booked a room in Hotel Blue Haveli, which was around 8km from the bus stand and we hired an auto to reach our hotel. The hotel’s check in time was 12 but they were gracious enough to give us our room at 8.30am. After freshening up our hotel manager booked an auto for us for the entire day’s sightseeing for 1000 ₹.
Umaid Bhawan Palace
This modern palace located in the southern part of the city, named after Maharaja Umaid Singh, is one of the world’s largest private residences. During the 1920s Jodhpur faced severe drought and famine for a period of three consecutive years, so to help the farmers, the Maharaja had this palace built to provide them with some employment. It took 14-15 years to build this palace. The palace has been divided into three functional parts – the residence of the current king Maharaha Gaj Singh and his family, a luxury five-star Taj heritage hotel and a museum. You need to buy a ticket of 30 ₹ to enter the museum.
Umaid BhawanMaharaja Umaid Singh
Mehrangarh Fort
Whether you catch a glimpse of the fort from the city below or capture the blue city view from the fort there is only one word to describe it, Awestruck!! One of the largest forts in India sits atop a hill 125 metres above the city. You need a ticket of 120 inr to enter the fort ( +50 inr if you want to take the lift right to the top). We decided to take the lift while going up and then walk while coming down to save some time. You can take audio guides for 100 ₹. The fort was built by Rao Jodha, the chief of the Rathore clan, after he founded Jodhpur in 1459 as the capital of Marwar. The museums inside the fort houses royal artifacts and commodities that were once used by the royal family.
Mehrangarh FortThe view from the terrace of Mehrangarh fortRoyal DurbarPalanquin
Jaswant Thada
Situated on the left side of the Mehrangarh Fort, about half a kilometer away is a cenotaph ( empty tomb or monument erected in honor of a person whose actual remains are elsewhere) built by Maharaja Sardar Singh in 1899 in memory of his father, Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, and serves as the cremation ground for the royal family of Marwar. It is built using white marble and the beautiful carvings will mesmerise you. You will need a ticket of 30 ₹ to enter.
Jaswant Thada
Mandore Garden
Mandore is also the maternal home of Mandodari, Ravan’s wife. The people of Mandore do not burn Ravan’s effigy during Dussehra as he is considered the son-in-law of Mandore. Mandore Garden houses the cenotaphs of many rulers of Jodhpur and is surrounded by a beautiful garden.
Mandore Garden
Food
You cannot leave Jodhpur without trying the famous Dal Bati Churma.
Dal Bati Churma
We decided to end the day by having dinner at the famous Indiquerestaurant with the mesmerizing view of the Mehrangarh fort glowing brightly.
The view of Mehrangarh fort at night from Indique RestaurantIndique Restaurant
Day 2
Since we had covered most of our tourist spots the day before, we decided to explore the city on foot. We started by having a relaxing breakfast at Café Royale at Clock Tower. The owners are lovely and always up for chatting. The menu is not extensive but the food is delicious. We had waffles and a special Clock Tower Sandwich with Honey Lemon Tea.
Toorji ka Jhalra (Stepwell)
After having breakfast we decided to walk (5 minutes) to one of the famous Stepwells in Jodhpur – Toorji Ka Jhalra. This stepwell was established in 1740 by the queen (Toorji) of Maharaja Abhay Singh. This well was submerged and full of debris for decades and only recently has it been drained, cleaned up and restored. In the process, the excavations went down over 200 ft to expose hand carved treasures in Jodhpur’s famous rose-red sandstone; including intricate carvings of the bygone eras. The entry is fee and it is open 24*7.
Toorji ka Jhalra
Blue City
There is a designated area in Jodhpur called the ‘Blue City’ which has been painted blue to give the feel of the blue city. There is nothing much to see there except walking through the narrow streets, taking beautiful photos in front of the blue walls and chatting with the locals.
Singhoria Hill
If you want to get the unobstructed view of the Mehrangarh fort along with the city of Jodhpur then this is the place you need to head to. After getting lost in the narrow lanes quite a few times inspite of Google Maps, and stopping frequently to click photos (how could we not!), we finally reached the Singhoria Hill, near Rao Jodha Park and just opposite Mehrangarh fort. You need to climb around 250 steps to reach the top and be mesmerized by the view in front.
The view from Singhoria HillThe steps to the top of Singhoria Hill
After having lunch at Krishna Prakash Heritage Haveli we decided to do some shopping at the Clocktower Market for some Rajasthani dupattas, tops and dresses. There’s not much to do at night and most places shut down by 9.30-10pm.
At 2am at night our hotel’s manager was kind enough to drop us at the bus stand in his auto in chilling cold, from where we boarded our bus to Jaisalmer. Read on to know more about your Jaisalmer experience.
Trip Cost
Bus from Mount Abu to Jodhpur – 800 (per head)
Hotel – 1445 (1 room for 2 days)
Sightseeing ticket – 230
Food – 4000 ( for 2 people)
Auto for sightseeing – 1150
Total – 4300 (approx. per head)
Network Connectivity
Airtel, Vodafone, Jio work perfectly.
Language
Most people speak Hindi or English and Rajasthani. So if you know either of them, it won’t be a problem.
(All the pictures you see are mine and not stolen from any other source)
December 2019 – “Topshe, Sonaaaar Kella!!”, Feluda exclaims. As a Bengali, your childhood is incomplete if you haven’t watched Satyajit Ray’s ‘Sonar Kella’. This movie, shot in Rajasthan and specifically in Jaisalmer, holds a special place in every Satyajit Ray fans’ heart. The third stop of our Rajasthan trip, Jaisalmer is the place where we got the real feel of the desert. Call it sand or sandstone, this world heritage site is golden in color from anywhere you look. Moreover, this Golden City has one of the very few ‘living forts’ of the world, the majestic Jaisalmer Fort.
How to reach ?
If you are taking a flight then Jodhpur has the closest airport, around 300km away, and from there you can take a bus or cab.
If you are taking a train then Jaisalmer has direct trains from Delhi, Jaipur and Jodhpur.
It took us 5 hours to reach Jaisalmer by bus from Jodhpur, booked via redBus for 1200 ₹. We reached Jaisalmer at around 8am and the temperature was 8 degrees Celsius.
The moment we got down at Jaisalmer, we realized we had finally reached the desert. Everywhere we looked, it was golden.
Day 1
We had already booked a room in Hotel Golden Sandstone, which was around 3km from the bus stand. We had taken an auto to our hotel and he offered to give us a tour of the city for 550 ₹. After freshening up, we started our day by having the authentic Kachori and Mirchi Vada from a roadside stall. If you are visiting Jaisalmer or Jodhpur please do not miss their signature Kachori.
KachoriMirchi Vada
Jaisalmer Fort
Perched on a yellow sandstone ridge, Jaisalmer fort is one of the very few “living forts” in the world, as nearly one fourth of the city’s population still resides inside the fort. This is the second oldest fort in Rajasthan, built in 1156 AD by a Bhati Rajput ruler, Jaisal from whom it derives it’s name. In 2013 Jaisalmer fort was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The fort is a vision of medieval prosperity meeting the 21st century in the thriving bustling township within. Havelis, historic cannons, Jain temples, curio shops, restaurants lie beside each other on cobbled narrow alleyways. Get a ticket of 100 ₹ to enter the city palace inside the fort. The entry to the fort is free. Also do not miss the bird’s eye view of the city from the fort.
Jaisalmer FortInside the City PalaceShops selling things inside the fort
Gadisar Lake
This lake was artificially built by Raja Rawal Jaisal as a water conservation reservoir to help the people facing water problems in the desert. You can take boat rides on the lake to absorb it’s true beauty.
Gadisar Lake
Camel Ride & Cultural Program
Jaisalmer is famous for it’s amazing camel rides and desert safaris. We had booked a tour from Thrillophilia for 1500 ₹ per head for an evening camel ride and cultural program in the desert. So at 4pm we were picked up from our hotel in a hatchback and were dropped at Sam Sand Dunes at around 5pm. The place was filled with tourists eagerly waiting to catch the sunset of the Thar. Our camel’s caretaker was a 15 year old boy named Aziz. He made sure we get the best view of the sunset and also took great photos of us. The 20 minutes camel ride was adventurous with us almost falling off the camel a few times. After being mesmerized by the breathtaking view of the sunset we were taken to the camp where the cultural program was supposed to take place. We were enthralled by the beautiful Kalbeliya dance performances and folk music, while shivering due to the bone chilling desert cold. After dinner we were dropped at our hotel at around 10.30pm.
Aziz with his camel Hrithik
Sunset in the desert
The camp where the cultural program was being heldKalbeliya performance
Day 2
On the second day we decided to visit the royal Cenotaphs.
Bada Bagh
Around 6km north of Jaisalmer, Bada Bagh, literally meaning big garden, features a series of royal Cenotaphs or chhatris of Jaisalmer Maharajas, including Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh. All the cenotaphs here have a beautifully carved ceiling and elegant statues of rulers. The ticket price is 100 ₹.
Bada Bagh
After visiting the Bada Bagh, we had the entire day to spend at our leisure so we decided to make another visit to the Jaisalmer fort. If you are visiting Jaisalmer then do not miss to buy the beautiful golden sandstone souvenirs. Even the jewellery, sarees and dupattas are things worth buying.
Having tea in one of the cafes inside the fort
After spending the day shopping, eating and checking out every nook and corner of the golden fort, we decided to walk to the Sunset Point called Suli Dungri. It was just a 1.2 km walk from the fort. We had to climb 100 steps to catch the splendid view of the fort and also the sunset.
The steps to Suli Dungri, the sunset pointThe view of the fort from Suli DungriThe sunset from Suli Dungri
At 7.30pm in the evening we had our bus to Jaipur. With a heavy heart and a promise that I would definitely visit again, I had to bid goodbye to one of the most beautiful cities I have ever visited.
December 2019 – The last stop of our Rajasthan trip, capital of the royal state, the Pink City of India, home to UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Amer Fort and Jantar Mantar, Jaipur was founded in 1727 by the Rajput ruler Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amer, after whom the city is named. Jaipur has 3 sections –
the oldest part is the area previously called Amer, located on a hill and famous for the forts of Jaipur
the Pink City area where all the buildings are pink-red tinged
the newest part of the city having the airport and other establishments
How to reach ?
Jaipur being the capital of the largest state of India and the 10th most populous state is well connected by air, rail and road from all parts of the country.
If you are taking a flight then Jaipur airport has both domestic and international terminus and connected to most of the major cities in India.
If you are taking a train then Jaipur has 3 railway junctions at Gandhinagar, Durgapura and Jaipur main. Indian Railways has connected this popular tourist destination with most of the major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai etc.
If you are taking the road then Jaipur is connected with NH8, NH11 and NH12. Buses are available, operated by Rajasthan State Road Transport Corporation (RSRTC) and private agencies as well.
It took us almost 12 hours to reach Jaipur from Jaisalmer by bus, booked via redBus for 1400 ₹. We reached Jaipur at around 8.30am.
Day 1
We wanted to have the hostel experience so we had already made our bookings in Moustache Hostel in the female dorm. The only thing I did not like about Moustache was that their check-in time was at 1pm. We were atleast allowed to use the common washroom and keep our bags safely till we got our allocated beds. Since we had no idea about Jaipur’s heavy traffic and we were late in booking a car for our sightseeing so we were told that we won’t be able to cover the 3 major forts of Jaipur that day. So a small tip, if you are planning to visit Amer, Nahargarh and Jaigarh forts on the same day then start before 9am to avoid the traffic.
Jaigarh Fort
Built in the 1700s by Maharaja Jai Singh II as a fort to protect the main Amer palace and the town below it. Later this fort functioned as a cannon foundry and it is home to the World’s largest Cannon on Wheels named Jaivan. The funny thing is that the cannon has never been used in battle and fired only once as a test-fire. It is claimed that it has a range of 35km. This fort is also full of ground level passages leading from one fort to the other. The fort is open between 9am and 5pm and ticket costs 35 ₹.
Jaigarh FortJaivan
Amer Fort (Amber Fort)
Amer is a town with an area of 4 sq km, located 11km from Jaipur. The first palace of the Amer Fort was built by the Meena tribe, the original inhabitants of Amer town. Later the current structure was built by Raja Man Singh I. Located on a hill, this UNESCO World Heritage Site, constructed of red sandstone and marble is greatly influenced by the Mughal style of architecture. At the entrance to the palace, near the fort’s Ganesh gate, there is a temple dedicated to Shila Devi, a goddess of the Chaitanya cult, which was given to Raja Man Singh when he defeated the Raja of Jessore, Bengal in 1604. Raja Man Singh had 12 queens so he made 12 rooms, one for each queen. Each room has a staircase connected to the King’s room but the Queens were not to go upstairs, only the King could visit the queens as and when he wanted.
We had already decided to hire a guide for this majestic structure since we wanted to know all the secrets of the fort and that’s the best decision we could have taken. Our guide helped us to reach inside the fort using a different route since the main road leading to the fort was too crowded and filled with tourists.
Amer Fort absolutely blew our mind and we visited every section shown by our guide. The architecture, the engineering and the opulence made us awestruck and for the next 3 hours we absorbed as much as we could of this grand fort. He also showed us areas where the movie Jodha Akbar was shot and we enjoyed every moment spent inside the fort.
Amer Fort
The kadhai shown in the movie Jodha Akbar
We had also booked the light and sound show at Amer fort from before. So after having lunch we attended the English show at 6.30pm. If you are visiting Amer fort, then please do not miss this show. The show was mesmerizing and definitely deserves a watch. It cost us 265 ₹ each. There is also a show in Hindi from 7.30pm.
Light & Sound show at Amer Fort
Day 2
Bhangarh Fort
When I was planning the Rajasthan trip the first place I added to my list was Bhangarh, one of Asia’s most haunted places. I have always been fascinated by mysteries and spooky tales. So when I actually got a chance to visit the place which inspired so many haunted stories, how could I not keep a day just for it.
Around 80km from Jaipur, situated in Alawar district, the ancient township of Bhangarh was founded in the later half of the 16th century by Raja Bhagwant Das, the then ruler of Amer and later on, it was made capital of Madho Singh who named it after his grandfather Bhan Singh.
The Archaeological Survey of India has prohibited night stay inside the Bhangarh fort as there have been incidents of people disappearing at night, paranormal activities witnessed inside the fort premises and other such stories and anecdotes. If night stay was allowed I would have definitely signed up for it. Who wouldn’t want to come face to face with a ghost ?
There are quite a few legends based on Bhangarh. One such story is that there used to live a sage named Guru Balu Nath on the hill of the fort. He allowed the king to construct a fort on the condition that it should never stop the sunlight from coming to his own shrine. This condition of him was honoured by every descendant of the king except Aja Singh. He constructed pillars casting a shadow on Balu Nath’s shrine. Angry sage then cursed the fort to descend to ruins and since then this fort has been considered to be haunted.
Another legend tells the story of Ratnavati, the princess of Bhangarh and a tantric Singhia. Singhia, a tantric expert in black magic, wanted to marry the princess. So he devised a plan to prepare a special oil to seduce the princess. But the princess being an expert in black magic herself, realised Singhia’s plan and threw the oil on a boulder which then crushed Singhia. In his dying breath the tantric cursed Bhangarh and it’s residents.
I was disappointed that I did not feel anything spooky but be it haunted or not, Bhangarh fort is beautiful but in desperate need for some restoration. When we visited, the fort was almost deserted except a few other Indian tourists and lots of monkeys.The ticket price is 25 ₹ for Indians and 200 ₹ for foreigners. The fort remains open till 5pm.
After returning to Jaipur from Bhangarh, since we had some time we decided to visit Albert Hall Museum, Jantar Mantar and one of the cafes opposite Hawa Mahal to get the full view of the Mahal.
There are two cafes – The Wind View Cafe and the Tattoo Cafe from where you can get the full shots of the Hawa Mahal. A narrow staircase takes you up to the cafes. Even if you don’t eat there, you can just go up there for the views and photos. They are always crowded. It’s very tough to get a place there, but we were lucky that we got a place on the rooftop of the Tattoo Cafe & Lounge. The food was good.
Day 3
It was the last day of the trip and the only fort left for us to visit was the Nahargarh fort.
Nahargarh Fort
Built as the summer palace for the royal family, set on the edge of the Aravalli Hills, Nahargarh fort once formed a strong defense ring for the city alongwith Jaigarh and Amer forts. Walls extended over the surrounding hills, forming fortifications that connected this fort to Jaigarh. The main palace within the fort is known as Madhavendra Bhavan. In addition there are nine other double-storied living spaces within the fort.
Later we visited Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar on Johari Bazar Road to get some Ghevar for home (famous Rajasthani sweet) and have lunch.
Trip Cost
Bus from Jaisalmer to Jaipur – 1400 (per head)
Hotel – 1300 (1 bed in female dorm for 2 nights)
Sightseeing ticket – 650 (per head)
Food – 4300 (for 2 people)
Car for sightseeing – 4000 (for 2 people)
Total – 7500 (approx. per head)
(All the pictures you see are mine and not stolen from any other source)
July 2019 – Mountains!! Always and forever!! No, I haven’t gone mad, that’s just the answer when people ask me if I love mountains more or beaches. My leaves were piling up and so was the work pressure and the only way I know of relieving stress is Traveling. I desperately needed some mountain time! Hence my love for offbeat paradise helped me narrow down on Parvati valley in Himachal Pradesh. I knew July might not be the best time due to the probability of rain but I also knew this would be an off season and I am so glad I went forward with the plan. A friend of mine readily agreed to accompany me on this backpacking trip.
Parvati Valley
Situated in the north Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, Parvati valley is one of the mystic places, rich with myths and folklore. One such belief is that Lord Shiva meditated in this valley for about 3000 years. One day he looked at this marvellous landscape and named it after his lover, Parvati.
Parvati river rises in the Man Talai glacier below the Pin Parvati Pass and flows across the valley into the Beas river near Bhuntar. The valley is dotted with numerous villages which have become backpacker hangouts offering cheap accomodations and international food.
How to reach?
If you are taking a flight then the closest airport is at Bhuntar. From Bhuntar you can get regular buses to the villages in the valley like Kasol, Barshaini etc.
The easiest way is to take a bus from Delhi to Bhuntar. On Friday night we took a bus from Majnu ka Tila in Delhi and reached Bhuntar the next morning at 7am.
Most places in Parvati valley do not accept cards and you aren’t likely to get any ATM after Bhuntar so stack up on cash at Bhuntar.
Day 1
After reaching Bhuntar, we got on a local bus which was going till Barshaini and got down at Kasol. The 1.5 hours bus journey gave us the first view of the valley. The chill in the breeze, the sharp turns of the road, the mighty Parvati river flowing surrounded by the mountains tell you what is in store for you the next few days. You will get numerous hostels, guest houses and hotels in Kasol but I decided to head to the quieter alternative of Kasol, Chalal. From the main market of Kasol take a left turn and you will see the Chalal bridge, crossing which will take you to the Chalal village. But you are very likely to lose all your senses at the view you get from the bridge. The roar of the Parvati and the lush greenery at all sides made us stand there mesmerized.
Kasol
Chalal Bridge
The only way to reach Chalal is on foot. It had started drizzling by then and we started walking along a narrow trail beside the river. After a bit of hiking we found a homestay called Mountain View. We got a room for 800₹ on the first floor and I fell in love with the view from the room.
View from Mountain View Homestay
Chalal trek
After freshening up, we decided to head to Kasol to have our lunch. After having sumptuous Israeli food at the Evergreen Cafe we visited the Kasol market and the Kasol Nature Park where we got to dip our feet in the ice cold water of the Parvati.
Kahwa
At Evergreen Cafe
Kasol Nature Park
The evening was spent clicking numerous pictures and appreciating nature’s gifts to us.
Rainbow!!
The Night Sky
Don’t be surprised if you get offered to buy weed and hash frequently by the locals as Parvati valley is the unofficial weed capital. Everywhere you will get to see marijuana growing. Since we were not interested we politely declined.
Day 2
After checking out of our guest house we headed to Little Italy Cafe for breakfast. After filling ourselves with some continental delicacies we decided to walk to Manikaran Gurudwara about 4km from Kasol.
Manikaran
Manikaran is the most famous tourist spot in the Parvati valley. It is a major Sikh pilgrim centre well known for it’s natural hot water spring.
According to one of the lores, Goddess Parvati lost her earring ( Mani) in a stream while taking a bath. After repeated failed attempts of finding the ring, Lord Shiva flew into a rage and opened his third eye which wreaked havoc on the universe. To pacify Shiva, Sheshnag (the Serpent God) hissed and gave rise to a massive surge of boiling water that spread through the valley. The surge pushed up the lost jewel, thus making Shiva and Parvati happy. Since then boiling water has sprung from the ground.
Manikaran
Manikaran is also famous for it’s Langar where people get to eat meals for free at all time.
After spending some time taking in the magic of Manikaran, we got on a local bus and reached Barshaini. After walking around a bit we finally took a shared cab till Tosh. Instead of Tosh, from Barshaini you can walk to Kalga or Pulga as well as those places also have quite a few options of accomodation.
Tosh
Tosh is the last village in Parvati valley till which transportation is available. Tosh is a proper village filled with pretty little houses and donkey dung. You are very likely to get confused between people’s houses and guest houses.
We got a room in the Shiva guest house for 600 ₹ for a night. After battling a few spiders who clearly did not expect guests anytime soon, we finally settled down and spent the evening with tea, music and this breathtaking view. For dinner we had Roti and Chicken curry served by the guest house.
Tosh
Day 3
After getting to know from a few fellow travelers about a beautiful waterfall just 45 minutes from Tosh, we decided to start our trek early in the morning. After trekking through a narrow trail and getting lost a few times, we finally reached the waterfall. The gorgeous waterfall took away all our exhaustion and left us with a calming sense of accomplishment. There was nobody around except a few dogs. The view from there accompanied by the sound of the waterfall made me feel as if I had entered into a dream world.
The trail to the waterfall
But soon reality beckoned and we started our return journey. After reaching Tosh, we checked out from our guest house and took a shared cab till Barshaini. It was 11 and we had planned to take a bus ride from Barshaini to Manikaran but the HRTC bus was supposed to leave at 1.30pm. We did not want to waste 2 hours so took a shared cab till Manikaran. After having lunch at the Langar and exploring the Gurudwara premises, we headed to Kasol. We did not want to bid goodbye to this heaven so were trying to soak in every last bit of it. Then we reached Bhuntar and started our bus journey for Delhi.
There are moments in life when you feel you have achieved it all and still feel incomplete as you can’t hold on to that moment forever. Its heartbreakingly beautiful and that’s how I would describe my trip to Parvati valley. It was filled with so many of such moments. I promised myself that I would definitely return to the heavenly abode and my only request to my fellow travelers is travel responsibly and do not leave your trash in the mountains. Leave the mountains as pristine as ever.
Trip Cost
Bus from Delhi to Bhuntar – 1099 (per head)
Local Bus within Parvati valley – 310 (2 people)
Shared Cab – 800 (2 people)
Chalal homestay – 800 (1 room for 1 day)
Tosh guest house – 600 (1 room for 1 day)
Food – 2700 (2 people)
Bus from Bhuntar to Delhi – 959 (per head)
Miscellaneous – 150 (2 people)
Total – 4700 approx. per head
Network connectivity
Airtel and Jio networks were spotty in some places but mostly available.
Language
Most people speak Hindi or English. So if you know either of them, it won’t be a problem for you.
(All the pictures and videos you see are mine and not stolen from any other source)
April 2019 – Everybody has heard of Darjeeling, the Queen of Hills, situated in the northern part of West Bengal, India. But it’s also true that now Darjeeling is one of the most crowded and commercialized hill stations of India. So my search began for some offbeat, remote and less crowded places in the laps of nature. To get some respite from the scorching heat in Kolkata, two of my friends readily agreed to accompany me on this trip.
Charkhole
Located in the Kalimpong subdivision of Darjeeling district, 30km from Kalimpong, 75 km from New Jalpaiguri station at an altitude of 5500ft above sea level. The words “Char” is “four” and “Khole” is “open” in Bengali and hence the name means open on all four sides.
Rishop ( Rishyap)
Meaning “Mountain peaks and forests”, at an altitude of 8500 ft above sea level is located 105 km from New Jalpaiguri station.
How to reach ?
If you are taking a flight then Bagdogra airport in Siliguri is the closest and it is well connected from all the major airports of India like Kolkata, New Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore, Hyderabad.
If you are taking a train then you can get down at New Jalpaiguri junction(NJP) which is connected to almost all parts of the country or the New Mal Junction which has trains from Kolkata.
Charkhole or Rishop are not connected by public transport so hiring a car is the only option. Plenty of options are available from both the airport and the stations.
We boarded the Padatik Express at 11.20pm from Sealdah station, Kolkata and reached NJP station at 9.30am next morning.
Day 1
We had already booked a car (Driver’s Phone Number – +91 9932501262) for this trip and our driver was waiting for us at the station. Our first destination was Charkhole, just 75km away and ideally should not have taken more than 1.5 hours but due to the pathetic condition of the roads for the last 10-15 km, our driver had already warned us that it would take atleast 3 hours to reach.
Charkhole being a fairly new place does not have many options for accommodation, a handful of resorts and homestays are present.
We had booked a room in the Charkhole Resort (http://www.charkholeresort.com/) situated on top of the Charkhole Hill.We reached around 2pm and the first look of the place took away my breath. If you don’t believe me, see this.
Charkhole Resort
View from Room
The pretty little cottages, the view from the room, the mesmerizing landscape around made me feel proud of my choice. I could actually feel the difference in the air I was breathing and I’m sure my lungs were thankful for it.
We were told that Kanchenjunga can be viewed only if the sky is clear but we were not so lucky.
The people at the resort had already prepared our lunch for us and the simple homely lunch of rice, dal, potato dish and egg curry felt heavenly at that time because we were starving. After freshening up and clicking numerous pics, we decided to walk to the nearby pine forest. It was a half hour walk on a narrow but well maintained road through the forest.
Charkhole Pine forest
Path to Pine Forest
After sunset there was not much to do outside as it was absolutely dark and the temperature was almost 15 degree. So we decided to enjoy the chill from our room while having dinner of well cooked Roti and Chicken, served by the hotel.
Day 2
Next day after checking out from the hotel and bidding adeu to this beautiful gem, we started our journey towards Rishyap via Loleygaon. Loleygaon is a small Lepcha village known for its simplicity and the panoramic view of Kanchenjunga. On the way we stopped at the Canopy Walk (Loleygaon) which is a 200m long hanging bridge made of wooden planks, suspended from one tree to another and located high enough to offer you the luxury of viewing the wild, pristine forest of Loleygaon in all its glory. The entry ticket was of 25 ₹.
Loleygaon Hanging Bridge
Next we visited the Deolo hill, highest point of Kalimpong at an altitude of 5500ft. The town of Kalimpong stands between the Deolo hill and the Durpin hill on the other side. The view from Deolo hill has the buzzing town and nearby villages on one side while the meandering Teesta river on the other side. The entry ticket was of 10 ₹.
Deolo Hill
At around 4pm we reached our hotel, New Sonar Bangla (Phone – +91 7602377906) in Rishyap. This is one of the oldest hotels with excellent view of Kanchenjunga on a clear day.
New Sonar Bangla Hotel
We decided to explore the surroundings which was silent, serene and absolutely soothing. The temperature at night was around 12 degree Celsius.
Sunset at Rishyap
Day 3
Next day we checked out from our hotel after breakfast and started our return journey towards Siliguri. On the way we stopped at the Lava Monastery
Lava Monastery
and this beautiful tea estate at Gorubathan.
Tea Estate
As we were nearing Siliguri, we could feel the temperature rising and we started missing the mountains, the quiet surrounding and the fresh air.
Even though it was just a 3-days trip, it gave us a much needed respite from the super hot, polluted city life.
Charkhole will always have a special place in my heart and I hope it never falls prey to commercialization.
Trip Cost
Train fare (Padatik Express – 3 tier AC – Kolkata to NJP) – 920 (per head)
Charkhole Resort (1 room) – 2400
Rishyap Hotel (1 room) – 1400
Train fare ( Satabdi Express – NJP to Kolkata) – 1050 (per head)
January 2018 -The long weekend of 26th January was coming up and Goa being too crowded, I decided to give this offbeat place called Gokarna a chance. My friend also wanted to accompany me on this trip of 3 days. Redbus told me direct buses are available till Gokarna from Pune since I stay in Pune, so the only thing left to do was looking for a hotel/hostel which is not that costly. Our first choice was Zostel but it was already full and none of the other available options were really attracting us as we wanted something close to the beach. So we decided to take a leap of faith and find a place after reaching Gokarna.
Gokarna? Where and Why?
Gokarna is a small town in Karnataka formed by few connected beaches and can easily be covered by walking or on bikes.
In India when we hear the word “beach”, the first place that comes to our mind is Goa. But if you are looking for a cheaper, quieter and more serene alternative then head to Gokarna. These are also the reasons why you will find a lot of foreigners there. The best part about Gokarna is that most of the main beaches ( Kudle, Om, Half Moon, Paradise) are connected so if you start walking from Kudle beach you can reach Paradise within 3-4 hours. That might seem a bit long to you but trust me the views and scenery that you get along the way makes it absolutely worthwhile.
How to reach?
If you are taking a flight then Goa airport is the closest and from there you can reach Gokarna by bus or car in 2 hours.
If you are taking a train then closest station is Gokarna Road (8 km away from the main city) but it being a small station is not well connected from major Indian cities. However, Gokarna is connected by rail from Karwar, Ankola, Hubli, Mangalore, Kumta and Margao.
You can get direct buses from Bangalore, Mumbai, Pune to name some major cities.
We boarded a sleeper bus from Pune at around 8pm that reached Gokarna at around 6am.
Day 1
Took an auto from Gokarna bus stand which we shared with two other girls and reached Kudle beach. Now we had the task of looking for a hotel. Since it was early morning and most places were closed, so we decided to wait till 8 and then start searching.
Kudle beach, early in the morning
After 8 we took an auto and the driver said we might get accommodation near Om beach. Namaste cafe is the most famous hotel cum restaurant in Gokarna due to its location (right on the Om beach), the beautiful cottages and the amazing food. Since it was the peak season, we absolutely had no hope of getting a room in Namaste Cafe but decided to just try once. Luckily we were told that one cottage will be available from 11am for 2000 rupees per day. So we booked it, kept our bags in the reception and headed to the restaurant of Namaste Cafe for breakfast.
Namaste Cafe, path to the cottages
Breakfast at Namaste Cafe
The restaurant is right on the Om beach. Since it’s frequented by both foreigners and Indians, their menu has both Continental and Indian dishes.
View from Namaste Cafe
After breakfast we decided to do a motorboat ride which promises you of dolphin sighting. The cost was 300 per person. It starts from Om beach and takes you till the Dolphin point near Paradise beach and back. We did see quite a few dolphins jumping. I just hope their habitat is not too disturbed by the tourists.
Paradise Beach
You absolutely cannot miss the sunset in Gokarna and we also got proof why Om (ॐ) beach is named so.
Gokarna’s sunset
Om (ॐ) Beach
Day 2
Since all the beaches are connected you can easily trek from one to another, so we decided to trek from Om beach to Half Moon beach. The way is a narrow trail through the forest and the view from the top of the cliff took away our breath.
Half moon beach is not connected by road, so the only way to reach it is by hiking. The beach has plenty of rocks and a small sparkling clean patch of sand. There’s a shack on the beach where we relaxed till it was time to head back.
Half Moon Beach
Near Namaste cafe there was a Ayurvedic massage parlour so in the evening we decided to head there and the cost was 900 rupees per person for a head to toe massage.
Day 3
We checked out from our hotel, walked till Kudle beach (this road is wider than the one to Half Moon) and chilled in a shack till evening when we had our bus back to Pune.
Kudle Beach
Visit Gokarna before it gets crowded and as commercial as Goa. The serenity of Gokarna will make you want to come back again and again.
Trip Cost
Bus fare( to and from Pune) + Hotel + Auto fare + Food = 14000 (for 2 people)
Network connectivity
In the reception we had wifi and my Vodafone connection was intact most of the time.
Language
Most people speak Hindi or English. So if you know either of them, it won’t be a problem for you.
December 2017 – I was desperate to go on a trip but none of my friends had time for one. So overcoming all the palpitations and after reading quite a few blogs, decided to embark on my first solo trip to HAMPI in Karnataka, India.
Why Hampi?
It’s one of the safest places in India for a female traveler.
It’s quite cheap for a solo traveler
Staying in Pune, Hampi is just one night of bus journey away
Since I did not want to take a leave, so Hampi was just the right place for a weekend trip.
Travel and Accommodation?
Boarded a sleeper bus from Pune and reached Hospet on Saturday morning around 7.30am. Hampi is just half an hour from Hospet and both buses and autos are available. If you are taking an auto make sure you bargain as much as possible. I had already booked Netra Guest House on http://booking.com for one night and it was quite cheap (650 rupees). It is very close to the Hampi bazar and right on the bank of the Tungabhadra river. The rooms have the basic amenities and good enough for budget travelers.
There are bikes and cycles available on rent for sightseeing. Since the temperature was almost touching 35, I decided on taking an auto.
I bought a small guide book and also asked my auto driver to be my guide throughout the day. All the information on the different spots are available in the books and the internet so don’t waste your money on getting a guide.
Why is Hampi so famous?
Hampi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire in the 14th century. After the defeat of the empire by the Muslim sultanate, Hampi remained in ruins and the ruins are spread over 40 sq km.
Trip Cost
Bus fare( to and from Pune) + Hotel + Auto fare for 2 days of sightseeing + Food = 4500
( If you rent a bike or cycle the cost would be even lesser)
Safety concern
As a solo female traveler I found Hampi to be quite safe. But after sunset everything shuts down and I didn’t venture out at night because I was too tired after full day of sight seeing.
Network connectivity
My hotel did not have wifi but my Vodafone connection was intact most of the time.
Language
Everybody speaks English, Hindi and Kannada there. Since it’s a favourite place for travelers both local and foreign so people there are quite familiar with tourists.
Places I visited in Hampi –
(All the pictures you see below are mine and not stolen from any other source)
Virupaksha temple
Sasivekalu Ganesh
Underground Siva temple
Hazara Rama Temple
Elephant Stables
Zanana Enclosure
Lotus Mahal
Mahanavami Dibba
Queen’s Bath
Vittala temple and the Stone Chariot
Pushkarni
Narasimha temple
Hemkuta Hill
Hampi’s sunset is absolutely beautiful and you can watch it from the Matanga Hill or the Hemkuta Hill.
Next day I decided to cross the Tungabhadra river and visit the Sanatpur lake. Please do not miss the Coracle ride.
On Sunday evening I boarded the bus from Hospet to Pune with lots of memories and a new found confidence after successfully completing my first solo trip.
The Constant Wanderer 